Ukpọn (clothing) can be made from many kinds of textiles, from woollen aprons to cotton cloth. In the past, only a few colours were used in the production and dying of textiles, which may explain why only red, blue and white are seen in the clothing grouped together here. Blue would have been made from indigo, whereas red would have been from ume or camwood.

Archaeological excavations in the royal palace carried out by team led by Graham Connah in the 1960s revealed fragments of finely made cloth (possibly lace, satin or sateen) dating back to the mid-thirteenth century (Greeves, 1975, pp.236-237

). The humid tropic climate of West Africa does not lend itself well to the preservation of organic materials, especially cloth, and these finds provide a fascinating snapshot into the long history of cloth and clothing in Benin City.

The Iwebo Palace society is dedicated to the production and maintenance of the royal court’s wardrobe and ceremonial regalia. The Owina is situated within this. The formalisation of weaving and weavers into the Owina palace guild has been attributed to Ọba Ohen (c. 1334–70) (Egharevba 1968, pp.12-13

Textiles played an important role in trade between Benin Kingdom and the various European countries it interacted with from the fifteenth century onwards. In addition to the import of textiles such as the red flannel Ododo, Benin Kingdom also exported cotton and was known for its cotton plantations (Ben-Amos, 1978, p.50

Ukpọn

Ugbẹkun (girdle) is the literal translation for ‘objects which are tied around the waist’. Ugue-egen is another word which can be used to describe a girdle-like object. These may be worn by the Ọba or chiefs either underneath or on top of clothing. When underneath, medicine or potent charms may be added for protection. When worn over clothing, pendant masks may be hung from the girdle. Included in the institution data is a leather object called Akpalode, which is a girdle produced by Isekpokin, the royal leather workers, and is infused with herbs and medicine worn by warriors for protection. Also included in the institution data is an object known as Ukugbohamwen, which is worn by the Ọba and the great chiefs during ceremonies. When Ukugbohamwen is worn the Ọba does not feel hunger, and it is believed that he could wear it for two weeks without food or drink.

Ugbẹkun could be made from a range of materials, from animal skins to textiles to beads. Some feature a rectangular section made from textile or beads at the front, similar to an apron. A rare example is cast in brass and is known as ‘Enowe’s girdle’. Enowe was a giant Edo warrior and wore this girdle along with vessels of medicine from Osun to protect him in battle (Peek, 2021, p.175

Ugbẹkun

Clothing

Ugbẹkun (girdle) is the literal translation for ‘objects which are tied around the waist’. Ugue-egen is another word which can be used to describe a girdle-like object. These may be worn by the Ọba or chiefs either underneath or on top of clothing. When underneath, medicine or potent charms may be added for protection. When worn over clothing, pendant masks may be hung from the girdle. Included in the museum data is a leather object called Akpalode, which is a girdle produced by Isekpokin, the royal leather workers, and is infused with herbs and medicine worn by warriors for protection. Also included in the museum data is an object known as Ukugbohamwen, which is worn by the Ọba and the great chiefs during ceremonies. When Ukugbohamwen is worn the Ọba does not feel hunger, and it is believed that he could wear it for two weeks without food or drink.

Girdle

Austria

Website

Online Catalogue

Weltmuseum Wien

Internal Data (ger)

Maschmann, Wilhelm Albert

Intermediary

Dealer

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